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North of Salta is the other province capital of the area, San Salvador de Jujuy. And north of Jujuy runs Quebrada de Humahuaca. In this canyon, as in many other places in the Andes, you are met by multicoloured mountains. Here, where the border to Bolivia is not far away, the population is overwhelmingly Quechua Indians. In Quebrada de Humahuaca there are also some small towns that are popular tourist stops.
I set the base for my expedition in Tilcara, which has a population of 3000 persons, and stayed there for two nights. One day, I went to Humahuaca further to north, and which is twice the size of Tilcara, and from Humahuaca I continued to the isolated Iruya. The road to Iruya first climbs to 4000 m above sea level, and the goes down into the valley on zig-zag roads. And there, almost improbably located, is Iruya, not at all a very small place.