Esteros del Iberá

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Esteros del Iberá is an enormous wetlands area, that occupies no less than 14% of the Corrientes province in the north-east of Argentina. Most parts of is not really accessible for plain tourists, but from the small colony of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini you can catch a glimpse of this area with its abundant wild-life.

I arrived Monday evening, and left Thursday morning, and had two really great days. In terms of natural experience I have had better, but blame that on the weather: grey skies, temperature around15°C and occasional rain. But rarely have I had a better stay, than I had Hostería Ñandé Retá. When I arrived on the first night, there was a note in my room that the next day I would have my first boat trip, and the note was signed by Estrella. Estrella is the one who arranges all trips and excursions, books your transfers in and out of Carlos Pellegrini. And when you are back from the excursions, she asks how you liked it, and she really cares that you had a good time. And you certainly cannot complain on the cooking.

If you go to Argentina, you should definitely consider Esteros del Iberá, and if you do, stay at Ñande Retá. (There is also another place, Posada Aguapé, that I believe is more up-scale. But they don't have Estrella.)  But it has to be said, that going to Carlos Pellegrini is not straightforward. The closest city is Mercedes, which you can reach by bus. From Mercedes there is another 120 km an unpaved road to Carlos Pellegrini. Unless you have your own vehicle, you will need a transfer. Ñandé Retá can book this for you, but of course a driver that goes 120 km forth and back, has quite a price tag. (Check their web site for prices and details.) In any case, you should book advance by telephone or e-mail. You don't go to this place out in the middle of nowhere relying on chance. Don't worry about the language - Estrella speaks excellent English.


1. The Road from Mercedes

2. Hostería Ñandé Retá

3. Water Hyacinths

4. Yacaré I

5. Trees by the Water

6. Trees in Water

7. Birds and Trees

8. Birds in Tree Tops

9. Birds in Tree Tops II

10. Yacaré Kid

11. Yacaré II

12. Carpincho I

13. Under-Water Yacaré

14. Garza Mora

15. Carpincho II

16. Estancia

17. Grape Fruit

18. Cows

19. The Tree where I Fell off the Horse

20. Horse Ride

21. Palm Trees

22. Palm Trunks in Water

23. Buffalos

24. Palm Forest

25. Edge of Wetlands

26. Termite Field

27. Ground

28. Hostería Flowers

29. Next Boat Trip

30. Carpincho Sex

31. Water View

32. Marsh Deer

33. Floating Island

34. Floating Island, II

35. Yacaré III

36. Another Water View

37. Graveyard

38. The Local Jungle

39. Jungle Flowers

40. Blue and White Flowers

41. Cactus Star

42. Termite Home with Basement

43. Carpinchos and Birds

44. Wattled Jacana

45. Vizcacha I

46. Vizcacha II

47. Violet Flowers

48. Horse in Water

49. Night Forest

50. Cactus Fruits

51. Estrella

52. The Road to Posadas