I don't really know what I expected, but Himeji proved to be a modern city. As a matter of fact, I don't think I ever saw any interruption in the stretch of built-up areas from going from Kyoto to Himeji, and that's a distance of over 100 km. This is Kansai, the most densely populated of area in Japan; Osaka and Kobe are also along the way.

On my way to the castle I fell for the temptation and slipped into Italian Tomato Jr(!) and had a cappuccino that was alright.